Springing up in bustling urban cities from San Francisco to Brooklyn, a delicious food revolution is entering the US gastronomy scene: Cantonese food. In recent years, restaurants like Four Kings in San Francisco, Bonnie's in Brooklyn and eateries such as the Potluck Club and Phoenix Palace in Manhattan have become buzzworthy spots for locals and visitors alike.

Deeply rooted in American history, Cantonese food originates from southern China, specifically Guangdong province, and Hong Kong. The food style made its way to American shores with Chinese immigrants in the mid-1800s. It has since found a home in the biggest Chinatowns of California and New York. Over time, Cantonese food has been Americana-ized, often associated with decoratively adorned restaurants featuring dim sum carts and hanging barbecue ducks.

Today, a new generation of chefs is tapping into Cantonese nostalgia. Young, energetic chefs like Calvin Eng of Bonnie's are reinventing Cantonese food. These chefs, often born and raised in the US by families hailing from southern China, are exposing the rich and diverse flavors of Cantonese cuisine to a new audience. Speaking on the newfound popularity of Cantonese food, Eng said, "I think it’s a different generation of kids who were born and raised in New York, who lived in immigrant households where both sides of the family were from southern China. We grew up eating Cantonese food, but worked in all different kitchens besides Cantonese restaurants. And now, the food that we all do is our own take on it.”

Calvin Eng’s memories of growing up in a New York immigrant household influenced his cuisine style, which he dubs Cantonese-American. Those family-style meals his mother used to prepare are the core inspiration behind Bonnie's, a hot name in the Williamsburg food scene, significantly known for its wildly creative dishes.

Similarly, the chefs at Four Kings in San Francisco are expressing their Chinese American and Cantonese American identity unapologetically. “We are unapologetically showing our identity as Chinese Americans and Cantonese Americans,” says Lucy Li, one of the partners at Four Kings. The menu, designed for snacking with friends while enjoying drinks, mirrors the experience of a vibrant night market.

Rubato in Boston, under the guidance of Laurence Louie, is another example of this trend. An extension of his mom’s Cantonese bakery, Rubato was reinvented into a modern Hong Kong–style cafe during the pandemic. Louie, like the others, is no stranger to Chinese traditions and home cooking.

Cantonese food is under a new spotlight in America's culinary footprint, reflective of both cultural heritage and modern reflection. While some elders may want things done traditionally, restaurateurs and chefs like Louie accept and welcome this movement, hinting at a richer and more inclusive culinary future. Louie share his sentiment saying, “The more modern take is being led by a handful of Chinese American chefs that are cooking some cool things that are authentic to our experience as Chinese Americans.”