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New Zealand's Hidden Gem: The Rising Popularity of Pinot Noir
- Aug 19, 2024
While Sauvignon Blanc may have established itself as New Zealand's signature wine since the 1970s, earning the country a spot in the top six worldwide wine exporters, the landscape is shifting. A sea change is mounting as New Zealand winemakers vigorously rally behind Pinot Noir. Across the country, this grape is making waves, giving birth to an array of striking wines, from Wairarapa in the North Island to Marlborough, Canterbury, and Central Otago in the South Island.
Paula de Pano, the sommelier and proprietor of Rocks + Acid in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, praises New Zealand Pinot Noir, recommending it to wine enthusiasts who appreciate fragrant, unabashed, elegantly robust wines. However, the grape still hasn't reached the frontrunner status of Sauvignon Blanc in the country.
New Zealand's only master sommelier, Cameron Douglas, recognizes that Pinot Noir remains somewhat veiled in the wine world. However, he observes the grape's climb into the limelight within a short time. Echoing these thoughts, Nick Daddona, an advanced sommelier and founder of Boston's WineKey, credits New Zealand's varied terrain for the high-quality and stylistic diversity in the country's Pinot Noir offering.
The history of Pinot Noir in New Zealand can be traced back to 1836. It was introduced there by James Busby, an amateur vintner, and cultivated for almost personal or religious purposes but rarely for commercial sale. In the 1970s, alongside the resurgent interest in wine, New Zealand's winemakers began taking their craft to an international audience, sharing their locally grown wines with the world.
Through an increase in international exchange programs and global recognition of New Zealand's red wine, Pinot Noir has gradually gained traction. According to Douglas, the grape thrives across a variety of soils in the country, with each region imprinting distinct nuances to the wine.
As explained by sommelier Alex Ring, wines like New Zealand Pinot Noirs each vividly express the unique character of their place of origin. They bring forth an intense, fruit-forward flavor profile that is unmistakably of New Zealand, distinct from the ripe, jammy taste common to some Californian Pinots.
New Zealand's Pinot Noirs have been widely appreciated for their innovative and authentic interpretation of the terroir, particularly in the dynamic climate of Central Otago. Additionally, the liberty of New Zealand's young wine industry from traditional expectations encourages winemakers to experiment freely, creating wines that embody their terroir and personal craftsmanship.
One notable champion of Pinot Noir was Larry McKenna, officially known as the “Prince of Pinot Noir”. McKenna pushed for Pinot Noir's prominence while others were pursuing Sauvignon Blanc. Although retired in 2022, his legacy and the Pinot Noir brand Escarpment, which he founded in 1999, continue to prosper.
Among the vast array of notable producers is Two Paddocks, a certified organic winery founded by actor and winemaker Sam Neill in 1993, which is often recommended by Daddona. Loveblock, Te Mata Estate, Taylor Pass Vineyard and Kumeu River Wines Ltd are other prominent New Zealand vineyards gaining recognition for their Pinot Noir offerings.