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Modern Wave of Jewish Bakeries and Delis Fusing Cultures and Restoring Traditions

world-cuisines

By Lily S.

- Oct 10, 2024

Imagine finding yourself nestled in a cozy, timeworn red booth, savoring the warmth of a hearty bowl of matzo ball soup. To your side sit delectable mounds of dense rugelach and an array of black-and-white cookies, along with a mesmerizing display of golden challah if it's Shabbat. This can only lead you to a classic Jewish-American bakery or deli, a sanctuary of comfort food, cherished memories, and sumptuous deli classics. Yet, the landscape of these traditional establishments is evolving.

Jewish-American deli and bakery offerings extend beyond familiar dishes such as overstuffed Reubens and crisp latkes with regional flavors and locally-sourced ingredients gaining prominence. In today's world, Chicagoans can relish the fusion of cultures found in a cinnamon-kissed churro babka from Masa Madre, a Jewish-Mexican bakery - a testament to the fact that culinary traditions are not monolithic but ever-evolving.

In Baltimore, Motzi Bread is crafting a reputation with their robust Benne Rye loaves and sturdy babka imbued with locally preserved fruit and luxury Askinosie chocolate. Owners Russell Trimmer and Maya Muñoz named the bakery Motzi, an homage to Hamotzi, the traditional Hebrew blessing over bread. They derive their flour from whole grains grown in the Chesapeake Bay area, supporting local farmers and showcasing the appeal of indigenous grains.

"We wouldn't necessarily consider ourselves a Jewish bakery because we're not kosher," says Muñoz. However, she believes strongly that Jewish values shape their business model. Their unique 'pay-what-you-can' and 'pay-it-forward' loaf programs emphasize fairness and generosity, essential principles in Jewish cultural practices.

In a similar vein, the forthcoming kosher-style deli and bakery, Meshugganah, in Charlotte, North Carolina, plans to combine Jewish and Southern cuisines, celebrating the rich diversity within Jewish food traditions and a commitment to use local ingredients. Its owner, Rob Clement, is developing recipes for pimento cheese knishes, matzo ball gumbo, beet-cured smoked trout, and locally-sourced pastrami sandwich.

On the other hand, some modern Jewish institutions do not hesitate to honor kosher guidelines. In Miami, Zak the Baker, founded by Zak Stern, is a kosher-certified bakery, drawing both orthodox and secular communities. With various restrictions linked to kashrut, the establishment creatively adapts traditional dishes. "Zak The Baker is essentially a kosher establishment run by a non-kosher person but it binds us together, making us more inclusive," says Stern.

These modern establishments are making a difference by preserving Jewish traditions in a more inclusive manner, appealing to customers across the spectrum. With strong roots in their individual communities, this modern wave of Jewish-American bakeries and delis continue to transform revered culinary customs, blending local and global flavors, all while fostering sustainable practices.