Decoding Raicilla: Mexico's Secret Agave Spirit
- Oct 23, 2024
Raicilla, an agave-based distillate, is acquiring newfound interest in the U.S. This exceptional Mexican spirit might be a close relative of mezcal but holds its own due to its distinct making process. It originates from the western and coastal parts of Jalisco and presents two interesting variants - coastal and mountain raicilla.
Founder of raicilla bottling company, Atarraya, Arturo Dávila, is making headway to highlight this two-faceted spirit. Dávila sources from various small producers, each contributing to the spirit's unique taste and complexity influenced by distinct traditions, styles of distillation and agave types.
Dávila is not just selling raicilla, he is showcasing Mexican culture through this intriguing beverage. He conducts workshops at Naviva, a Four Seasons Resort in Punta Mita, Mexico, as part of the resort's extensive agave educational programming. Through a palette displaying a spectrum from mineral to peppery and from green to tropical, Dávila is breaking away from the alcohol and steering towards the cultural significance of raicilla.
Coastal raicilla, according to Dávila, is an embodiment of Mexico’s Asian influence, mirroring a Filipino style of distillation. It utilizes wooden stills and a double distillation process, replacing coconut sap with agave. Mountain raicilla, alternatively, undergoes a single distillation using clay stills and mimics traditional mezcal production methods.
Pedro Jiménez, founder of Mezonte, a nonprofit dedicated to the conservation of traditional agave spirits and their makers, explains the variation in agave species used. Coastal raicilla uses Agave angustifolia and rhodacantha, while the mountain variety largely employs Agave maximiliana.
However, raicilla’s uniqueness isn't just limited to its ingredients but also extends to the communal tradition that fosters its production. The relentless quest to mass-produce and sell tequila previously eclipsed the cultural significance of raicilla. Producers are now striving to revive this connection and share the exceptional value it brings to the local community.
Dávila keenly emphasizes on giving recognition to the producers whose names often remain hidden behind the brands. In a world increasingly seeking authenticity and stories, acknowledging and showcasing the people behind the creation is pivotal.
Despite raicilla gaining a Denomination of Origin (D.O.) status in 2019, it resulted in dichotomy rather than unity as its coastal and mountain variants possess distinctly different traditions. Nonetheless, Jiménez brings forth the importance of recognizing the biological and cultural diversity relieving the reliance on marketing gimmicks.
Zooming onto the creators, Dávila encapsulates their vital role stating they are akin to artists, with each product a reflection of their mastery. Their knowledge he admits, although frequently overlooked, is of exceptional value.
In an endeavor to truly appreciate this agave spirit, the Four Seasons Resort, Naviva, has debuted two editions of its Road to Raicilla. Their carefully curated experiences provide a deep dive into raicilla’s creation process coupled with local meals and tastings. In contrast to the grand visitor centers of Kentucky bourbon or Napa Valley, these journeys promise intimate, enriching experiences benefiting the local community.
Simultaneously, Mezonte's Agave hub in Guadalajara serves as both a tasting room and an education center advocating for sustained knowledge-sharing. Dávila also joined this initiative launching Benomade, a cultural tourism operator, to offer private tours and special events focused on raicilla production.
So, on your next visit to Mexico, make sure to add a pit stop at Chiro Taberna, a bar set up by Dávila in Puerto Vallarta. It not only serves Atarraya raicilla but also a selection of classic cocktails made with raicilla and a range of agave distillates from various producers.