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Chicago's Deli Culture: A Cut Above

restaurants

By Liam Foster

- Aug 13, 2024

One of the quirks of American language is the New Yorker's usage of "deli" as a catch-all term. For them, a deli is just another dine-out option, like Italian or Chinese. However, this is not the case in Chicago. What the city lacks in neighborhood delis, it makes up for with numerous sandwich shops, where menus feature Italian beef, hamburgers, hot dogs, and gyros.

In Chicago, delis aren’t just places to grab a quick bite; they are destinations. They are treat spots where the portions are so large, they often inspire jokes about cardiology check-ups. The city's deli scene revolves around three primary food cultures - Jewish, Italian, and Polish.

Manny's Cafeteria and Delicatessen has been a notable presence near the late Maxwell Street Market, which was bustling with delis and food businesses, since 1942. Despite the disparities in the definition of "deli," Manny's stronghold in the area is undeniable, with massive latkes, hearty matzo balls, and kreplach soups, and a warm corned beef sandwich that is a dream come true for foodies.

Jewish culture prominently finds its place in the Chicagoan suburb of Skokie, home to the city's best traditional deli, Kaufman's. This traditional deli tempts customers with heaping sandwiches and a variety of delicacies, including half-sour pickles, Nova lox, fresh-baked bagels, rugelach, and tubs of frozen matzo ball soup.

Moving to the north side’s Polish delis, Andy’s offers a wide range: from a meat and sausage counter causing a stir among expats, to the bakery section offering sour rye bread, paczki (sugary custard or jelly-filled doughnuts), and cake layers heavy with frosting. The prepared foods counter in the back presents a plethora of choices for a generous hot lunch.

Lastly, the legacy of Chicago’s West loop's Italian deli culture can be witnessed at J.P. Graziano Grocery. This nearly 90-year-old deli serves sandwiches to-go, including its famous giardiniera, a necessary fixing for Italian beef sandwiches available in both hot and mild versions. Completing the deli experience, customers can pick out their own chips and drinks, admire the salumi-filled old deli counter, and wait as their sandwich is prepared.