Renowned Australian chef, Josh Niland, opened Saint Peter, a unique seafood restaurant in Paddington, Australia, where he astounded visitors by hanging fish in the front window in a dry aging cabinet. As Niland reminisces, the sight of fish hanging on hooks was so outlandish that it drew folks into his restaurant, curious about the spectacle.

Fast forward eight years, Niland's signature aging technique has matured just like his fish. Known for pioneering the dry-aging of seafood and boasting three culinary books to his name, Niland has brought to the limelight a preparation method mastered by sushi chefs for centuries.

While it seems paradoxical to age fish, a food commonly consumed fresh, Niland and many other chefs globally have proven that well cleaned, descaled fish kept in cool, dry conditions can result in a superior flavor and texture. Depending on the fish and aging length, the flesh might tenderize and taste fresher raw, or when cooked, the skin could crispen, puffing up delightfully.

Niland discovered that some Australian fish, such as King George Whiting and Flathead, can only be aged for a maximum of five days to preserve their distinct taste. Conversely, meatier fish like swordfish can age for over two weeks, developing a pork-like flavor. Dry-aged fish generally tastes and smells less fishy, which Niland's patrons often describe as the freshest fish they've ever tasted.

Dry aging fish extends its shelf life from days to weeks, which allows Niland to utilize nearly 95% of the fish, from creating sausages and bacon to pies from their offal. But while Saint Peters fish hang in a custom-built refrigerator today, many US chefs employ smaller temperature-controlled cabinets like the DRY AGER.

Increasingly, US-based seafood restaurants are proudly presenting their fish aging processes to their customers. You can find a DRY AGER spotlighting upside down hung fish upon stepping into Theodora in Brooklyn, New York. Theodora's chef-owner Tomer Blechman believes it lights up their distinct approach and the quality of their catch.

An aging cabinet exists in Alabama's Automatic Seafood, a strategic decision taken by chef Adam Evans due to limited space. Every guest spotting the locker becomes intrigued and routinely photographs it, proving to be trendy.

Having an aging cabinet presents both luxury and transparency to the appetizing process of dry-aged fish, bridging the gap between the diner's apprehension and their appreciating dry-aged fish. Niland explains, “What better way of bringing transparency and luxury to a menu product than by showing it off in a raw way in our dining room?"

2023 F&W Best New Chef Nando Chang, who owns Miami omakase bar, Itamae AO, believes that his visible fish aging cabinet has become part of the show. Passersby constantly stop to marvel at this unique spectacle through the window, reflecting the sushi tradition of opening a box of saku loins for guests to admire before they consume their nigiri. Safe to say, the trend of dry-aged fish, just like the flavorful delicacy itself, is here to stay.