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Understanding the Flaws in Your Favorite Wine: A Drinkable Defect?

drinks

By Jackson C.

- Jun 21, 2024

Despite its age-old sophistication, the wine-making process is not exempt from slight imperfections. A myriad of unexpected issues may arise during fermentation and production, such as cork taint, Brettanomyces, and volatile acidity, which add unique spins to your wine bottle's contents.

Dr. Jamie Goode, a renowned wine journalist and author of "Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine," points out that the most noticeable wine fault is cork taint. The taint develops when a cork's fungal byproducts, often referred to as 2,4,6-trichloroanisole or TCA, infiltrate the wine. This seepage may impart a musty, damp cardboard-like aroma, but not all off flavors and smells stem from cork taint. According to Goode, Brettanomyces or Brett, caused by rogue yeast in the wine, can create a range of savory, slightly medicinal flavors, evocative of band-aids or farmyard smells.

New York-based Pressoir's Wine Director, Edouard Bourgeois, chimes in about the danger of Brett infestations, noting even a small Brett population can ruin a whole vat of wine or potentially affections an entire winery. Other chemical reactions can also induce faults in wine such as volatile acidity, or VA. Bourgeois describes VA as the accumulation of acetic acid which can render the wine's taste to a vinegar-adjacent profile if it's too concentrated.

However, some in the wine industry, particularly those in the natural wine scene, have welcomed a dash of VA as a way to vary the aromas of a bottle. It can make the wine sharper, slightly tart, or cause a light fizz on the tongue.

Another two well-contested wine flaws are oxidation and reduction. Goode demystifies these, saying they are opposing chemical reactions but not in the context of wine. In fact, oxidation is adverse oxygenation that makes a wine lose its fruitiness, fade in color, and gives it savory, earthy flavors.

On the other hand, reduction refers to the presence of odorous volatile sulfur compounds in wine which can range from simple, such as the egg-and-drain-like hydrogen sulfide, to more complex scents. Goode adds that volatile sulfur compounds could enhance wine's profile if used sparingly.

Some vintners may choose to minimize oxygen exposure to shield wines from oxidation. "While oxygen can enhance wine aromas when used in moderation like decanting or swirling wine in the glass, it can be detrimental in larger doses," Bourgeois opines. Wine that is overexposed to oxygen may spoil its aromatic profile and may inhibit its aging process.

Christina Rasumussen, co-founder of U.K.-based Little Wine, says that every wine flaw is unique in its intensity and perception, differing with individual palates. People perceive a variety of flavors from pepper to wine defects differently due to the compound rotundone, she elucidates.

This variation in perception leaves us to wonder, is a wine flaw truly a fault, and whose taste preference should set the standard? While sulfurous matchstick notes might turn some away, many wine enthusiasts savor the complexity it can provide. This perspective can apply to most flaws except cork taint which mavens unanimously find inedible.

Goode and Bourgeois both agree that subtle manifestations of flaws can impart a certain intrigue many find enjoyable. On the flip side, a heavily oxidized bottle or one overloaded with volatile acidity resulting in vinegar or nail polish remover notes as Rasmussen notes, can detract from the overall experience.

Although tainted or oxidized wines pose no health concerns, when flaws overpower the balance, the experience of drinking it could become unsatisfactory. Goode concludes, "People's sensitivity to various aromas varies, so they don't all perceive wine imperfections in the same way. And that just adds another degree of complexity."