It may come as a surprise that lovers of Italian red wine like Barolo and Brunello are now flocking to Northern Italy for lighter, more chillable reds such as Frappato and Dolcetto. Among these refreshing wines winning hearts is a variety everyone seems to be stocking up in their fridges: Schiava.

Schiava, known for its flexibility, flavorful fruit notes, refined tannins, and acidic structure, is making a comeback not only in its homeland of Alto Adige but also gaining popularity on the American soil. “Forward-thinking American wine enthusiasts are now looking beyond the typical 'Italian red wine' and are ready to discover the numerous hidden gems in the region,” claims Chris Struck, a Brooklyn, New York-based hospitality and restaurant consultant.

Due to its light, fruity, and fresh palate, and with a typically low alcohol percentage averaging around 12%, Schiava is resonating with the current preferences of wine drinkers. It is primarily unoaked, making it highly food-friendly, and according to Christoph Fischer, sales director for Cantina Kaltern, a cooperative winery in Alto Adige, it presents "an impressive cost-benefit ratio that's snagging the younger demographic.”

Since the 16th century, Schiava has been the prevalent local red grape of Alto Adige, also referred to as South Tyrol. This grape also thrives on the steep inclines of Württemberg, Germany, where it is called Trollinger or Vernatsch. Todd Johnston, a sommelier at Marsh House in Nashville, Tennessee, asserts, “Despite distribution across several European nations, Schiava remains consistent with the terrain around the German and Italian border. It's primarily a cool climate grape that loves high altitudes.”

Schiava's modern history is as interesting as its ancient roots. According to the Alto Adige Wine Consortium, Schiava accounted for about 70% of the total acreage in Alto Adige between 1978 and the early 2000s, a period when Alto Adige was mainly known for its red wines. However, the late 1990s began to see a shift as vineyards transitioned to non-native varieties like Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Gewürztraminer, and Chardonnay in response to international demand. Consequently, Alto Adige switched its reputation to a white wine region and nowadays only 8% of the planted acres in Alto Adige is dedicated to Schiava.

“This variety is now only cultivated in vineyards where it produces truly exceptional quality,” says Florian Gojer of Franz Gojer, a small, family-operated winery in Alto Adige’s Maddalena wine-growing region, specializing in Schiava. "The increased media coverage and subsequent consumer interest show that winemaker commitment and efforts to preserve the variety have been fruitful," he added enthusiastically.

Karoline Walch, from Elena Walch winery in Alto Adige, recognizes the importance of Schiava in the region's history, “It is an integral part of our heritage, and we value it as such.” Chris Struck sees the current popularity as substantial, classifying the comeback as a chance for Alto Adige and its producers to underline their global position, not as novices, but as experts and masters of an exclusive offering.

The style of Schiava varies across regions and producers, typically considered a light- to medium-bodied red wine. For instance, in the Santa Maddalena denomination of origin, Schiava is traditionally mixed with up to 15% of Lagrein, a native grape that brings a structured character to the wine. This blend is often labeled as S. Maddalena, similar to how Chianti represents Sangiovese-dominant wines from a specified area.

Carlin Karr, a wine director for the Denver-based Frasca Hospitality Group, conveys that the wine's color can imply its structure and body. The darker it is, the more tannins it will have from spending longer on skins.

In Alto Adige, the lighter styles are often enjoyed chilled with a regional smoked ham known as speck during aperitivo hour. Colin Tuska, the wine director and beverage manager at Chicago’s Monteverde, regards Schiava as the ideal standalone drinking wine at a bar.

These wine experts also concur that Schiava's adaptability to pair with diverse warm-weather dishes is fantastic. From seared venison to fish dishes with summer tomatoes, or even with the myriad tastes of a Thanksgiving dinner, Schiava is extremely versatile. This ability to pair with a wide variety of meals and act as a meal-starter or all-course compliment cements Schiava's status not just as a summer wine, but as a year-round favorite.