In The Spirit of Agave: Inside America’s Outstanding Mezcal Bars
- Nov 3, 2024
Right now, it's hard to ignore the fiery rise of agave spirits, particularly mezcal. With more and more Americans developing a taste for it, authentic mezcal bars are popping up and prospering across the country. But what separates the best mezcal bars from the rest isn't just an expansive selection of agave spirits or exceptional cocktails.
Mezcal, alongside other traditional Mexican spirits like sotol, bacanora, and raicilla, is rooted in a long, vibrant history. Distilled from plants taking years to mature, the best mezcals are crafted using techniques handed down by countless generations of seasoned mezcaleros. As Max Reis, beverage director at Mírate in Los Angeles, points out, "Respecting and understanding traditional mezcal heritage is paramount for bars." He notes that Americans are the world’s top consumers of agave spirits, meaning the demand and responsibility lie with us.
Promoting knowledge and understanding is key to managing a responsible mezcal program. Ivan Vasquez, owner of Oaxacan eatery and mezcal bar, Madre!, says, “[Mezcal] has represented Indigenous communities for centuries. It has survived prohibitions, discrimination and societal ignorance. Our job is to uphold the important history of mezcal through education and awareness.”
Sadly, not every agave-targeted bar respects the spirit with the reverence it deserves. But Chris Simmons, global brand ambassador for Mezcal Vago, remains hopeful. "I trust those interested in endorsing authentic producers will inspire more bars to do the right thing, to appreciate and honor mezcal's history."
Numerous mezcal industry professionals, including bartenders, brand ambassadors and restaurant owners, have put forward their favourite mezcal-focused bars. Standouts are those that prioritize authenticity, education, and ethical considerations.
One such standout is Mírate. Since its launch in 2022, it has risen swiftly, serving up inventive cocktails alongside a remarkable range of Mexican spirits. The Mírate bar regularly arranges educational tasting sessions led by the very mezcaleros crafting these unique spirits. Its dedication to preserving traditional spirits production saw it recognized as one of the top 50 bars in North America.
Another commendable establishment is Bar Clavel. With its commitment to imparting knowledge, it has positioned itself among the leading venues. “Clavel's level of customer education is unrivalled,” says Reis. "Their commitment to ethics and continuous education shapes their reputation as a leader in the mezcal movement."
Las Almas Rotas also warrants a mention, with its carefully curated menu of Mexican spirits and exceptional educational programs. The welcoming atmosphere, fun and educational experience set it apart from others.
In Los Angeles, the Oaxacan establishments of Ivan Vasquez, including Madre!, are making significant contributions to the local agave scene. Moreover, offering one of the most innovative selections of mezcal and being a vocal advocate for the spirit have made Vasquez a leading figure in the mezcal community.
Denver-based Ni Tuyo, doesn't immediately spring to mind when considering agave bars. But owner Nathan Ayala-Schmidt is keen to change that. With an impressive mezcal list, a focus on hospitality and consistent efforts to expand community knowledge, Ni Tuyo is one to watch.
The Cabinet, a small Manhattan bar featuring one of the country’s most extensive collections of agave distillates, is a must-visit for the adventurous, mezcal-curious crowd.
Another notable mention is the Bay Area’s Odin. Hidden in the heart of Oakland, Odin is led by mezcal specialist Hugo González. Its agave-centric bar and exclusive selection of mezcals make it a gem in the rising Bay Area mezcal scene.