Perched on the bar at Gramercy Tavern, amidst the rustic chic surrounding, a host of peculiar objects may catch your eye- a figurine, glass beaded grapes, a miniature drum and a plastic ham puffing a cigarette! Seemingly not in line with the room's traditional decor, these elements have a vital purpose in maintaining the restaurant's philosophy of exceptional and attentive service.

The restaurant's Beverage Director, Randall Restiano employs these innocent-looking items for communication. For instance, when he descends a couple floors to fetch a bottle from the cellar, he places the diminutive white plastic drum on the bar. This acts as a signal to other staff members to stay put. A departure from the typical in-ear headsets used in other establishments of similar size, this eccentric, effective, and distinctive system perfectly embodies the integral spirit of Gramercy Tavern.

Restiano, who took over as the beverage director in August 2023, cites Former Director Juliette Pope as the architect of this novel program. Pope began her career at Gramercy Tavern back in 1997, first as a cook, then as a server and manager, finally moving to oversee beverages in 2004, a position she held until 2016. She further acknowledges Paul Grieco, another predecessor, for setting the groundwork for the wine program. Grieco, who first served in early 1995 before ascending to the role of service director, praises Gramercy’s opening manager Steven Solomon, for establishing the enduring identity of the wine program.

Restiano, Pope, and Grieco claim that an essential component of this extraordinary wine program is the common language shared amongst all staff members about various wines. Pope explains, “From the beginning, the whole orientation of the program was about tasting all the time, educating, sharing stories, putting wine in everybody’s glasses - the waiters, the bartenders, all 40 people sitting down at family meal.”

Their education program includes innovative methods. In a recent California wine discussion, a sommelier demonstrated Napa Valley’s layout using plates and a folded napkin to represent Gala Mountain Vineyard - the origin of the Cabernet Sauvignon that everyone was tasting. This culture of constant learning and passion for wine extends to the kitchen crew as well. They enjoy weekly wine tastings, a practice uncommon even in upscale restaurants.

Three decades later, Gramercy Tavern’s wine program still never fails to astound and delight. The menu boasts of 81 pages of exceptional wines, with remarkable options poured at your table to inspire patrons to explore new wines. The essence of the wine program has beautifully evolved over the years. Greico aptly puts, "The bones have been in place since the start”. He reiterated the restaurant's commitment to quality noting that when it comes to selecting wines at Gramercy Tavern, "You’re going to have fucking Boxler on there," referring to the renowned Alsace producer who has long been a favorite of Danny Meyer.

Final thoughts from the Tavern's previous beverage directors and co-founder are testament to the enduring passion for authentic and quality wine at Gramercy Tavern:

Paul Grieco, former Gramercy Tavern beverage director, opines: “The journey this juicy, earthy wine made from red País grapes grown in Chile's Bio Bio Valley takes the imbiber on - the range of aromatics, the length of the wine on the palate, the questions the wine asks of you - very much mirrors the freedom we had at Gramercy to do everything possible to make the guest happy.

Juliette Pope fondly recalls, “Julien Pinon and his father François are known for their Chenin Blancs, but I love the pet-nat pink they make from a mere 0.4 hectare of black fruit planted by François in the 1960s to make red wine for their vineyard workers. It is dry, juicy, chalky and delicious and it was a privilege to pour it by the glass at Gramercy annually.”

Randall Restiano notes, “This is the first wine produced by Ted Lemmon in 1993, and has been on Gramercy’s list since the first days. Littorai’s wines are classic and iconic. Just like each of the dishes that leaves our kitchen, this wine tells a story.”

Danny Meyer, Gramercy Tavern co-founder ties it together: “We opened Gramercy Tavern hoping to make it the benchmark in its category, which aligns perfectly with the aspirations we had for Billecart-Salmon’s NV Brut Rosé.”