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The Big Secret Behind Decadent Diner Pancakes Revealed

cooking

By Liam Foster

- Sep 27, 2024

Ever found yourself flipping through that dense menu at your local diner, torn between something sweet or savory? Invariably, most of us land on the comforting decision of sharing a stack of fluffy diner pancakes - a culinary delight with a nutty twist and a soft sweetness that no one seems to get enough of.

Some may argue that the unique taste lies in the loving touch of nostalgia or the subtle magic of a well-used griddle. However, the elusive secret ingredient that gives these delectable cakes their unique flavor profile has been divulged by Caroline Schiff, 2022 F&W Best New Chef, who is planning to open her own diner soon. This magic powder is none other than malted milk powder.

In an enlightening insight, Schiff said, "Malted milk powder adds a toasty, roasty, somewhat nutty, slightly caramelized flavor to sweets. It is a classic diner staple ingredient which is why certain things like pancakes, waffles, milkshakes, always taste better at a diner."

Malted milk powder is typically a blend of barley malt, wheat, milk, and a dash of salt, and is referred to as a non-diastatic malt powder. This indicates that its enzymes are inert, lacking leavening properties. Brands like Carnation and King Arthur Baking Company are popular sources for this shelf-stable, secret weapon of many pastry chefs.

Not to be mistaken with malted milk powder, Ovaltine is a malted drink mix made with added sugar, usually available in classic and chocolate flavors. It can be used in baking or drinks for an extra sweet kick but isn't an appropriate substitute for malted milk powder due to its additional ingredients.

Using malted milk powder in baking can be as simple as incorporating it into your brownies, cookies, fudge, and, of course, pancakes with little to no alterations to your existing recipes. Schiff recommends starting with about a tablespoon of malted milk powder for a cup of flour, while reducing the sugar content slightly to balance the flavors.

However, she warns not to tamper with the sugar quantity in cookie dough as it could impact the texture. It's also crucial to disperse the malted milk powder evenly in dry ingredients or dissolve it properly in liquids to prevent clumping.

Lastly, in Schiff's experience, the simplest and most enjoyable use of malted milk powder is in conjuring up a classic diner-style milkshake. Blend in a tablespoon or two with ice cream and milk for a delectable, creamy treat.