Perhaps due to unfortunate scheduling, my spouse and I found ourselves in Las Cruces, New Mexico, a day late for the annual Hatch Chile Festival. This event typically sees a surge of 30,000 visitors all eager to indulge in the distinct long green chiles renowned for their origin in this fertile valley. However, though we missed the festival, our timing was perfect for the beginning of the region’s chile harvest. A trip to the local grocery found us in the presence of fresh Hatch chiles being roasted right there in the store.

"Do you want ten or 20 pounds?" was the question posed to us as we stood in the waft of sweet, smoky, popcorn-like scent from the peppers. We opted for ten pounds, which we divided up, froze, and later secured in a cooler for our 1,500-mile journey back home. This is just a staple practice for anyone serious about Hatch chiles.

One may ask, "Why all the drama for mere peppers?" But Hatch chiles are a unique breed bearing the mark of New Mexico's desert. They may resemble Anaheim chiles, but their flavor profile is a complex mix of grassy, fruity, and smoky tones, with a subtle sting of heat. These chiles were first cultivated by Pueblo and Hispanic communities in Santa Fe de Nuevo México, with modern versions developed by horticulturist Fabián García and his apprentices at what is now New Mexico State University. Modern variants range from the large Big Jims to the fiery Sandia Select and Rattlesnake chiles. All these are native to the nutrient-rich soil of Hatch Valley.

These chiles are harvested from August until the first frost hits, which is typically around November. The ripe ones, which turn red, are most likely destined for salsa, resulting in the constant debate in New Mexican restaurants-“Red or green?”

In 2016, an assortment of green chile growers in the Hatch Valley brought a certification mark for Hatch-grown chile into effect, validated by a federal appeals court. This was to counter instances where peppers not grown in Hatch were being marketed as such.

Would-be Hatch chile consumers outside of New Mexico can get their hands on these flavorful chiles through various reliable suppliers like Zia Hatch Chile Co., Young Gunz Hatch Valley Chile, and The Hatch Chile Store. The robust nature of the chiles allows them to keep their flavor even after preservation through roasting or canning.

Hatch chiles are especially ideal for Tex-Mex dishes such as enchiladas, burritos, chiles rellenos, green chile smash burgers, and chile con queso. The latter isn't your typical processed cheese dish. It's a combination of roasted Hatch chiles simmered in their own spicy, tangy liquid, topped with melted cheddar, and served alongside fresh flour tortillas. A revered chile con queso dish can be found at the century-old Chope’s establishment, situated around 30 miles south of Las Cruces.

Indeed, Hatch chiles offer an unmatched culinary experience stirred by the ambience of late summer in New Mexico, the blue desert sky, and the aroma of freshly roasted Hatch chiles pervading the air. As I discovered, there’s no chile quite like a New Mexican chile.