A journey from Dolores Hidalgo, Mexico, to Austin when I was six years old was the beginning of a new chapter of my life. As a child, my world was engulfed in Spanish language, patriotism marked by el quince instead of the Fourth of July, and the rhythms of Luis Miguel songs. Like maintaining a runner’s hold on a fragile baton, I clung to the threads of my Mexican heritage throughout my childhood. Of these threads, I held the tradition of Día de Muertos (The Day of the Dead) dearest.

In Mexico, Día de Muertos is not just a holiday but a profound tradition that pays homage to the dead. It climaxes on November 1 and 2 when we believe those departed journey back to our plane from the afterlife. Homes are adorned with ofrendas (altars honoring the departed), preparing their favorite meals, and exchanging fond memories.

Esteemed 2023 F&W Best New Chef Edgar Rico, a resident of Austin and proud proprietor of Nixta Taqueria, exemplifies the tradition by maintaining an ofrenda at his establishment. There, he encourages both his team and the community to add photos of their departed ones. “You remember all the good times you had with them and all the beautiful memories that you made together,” he comments.

Ana Castro, the acclaimed 2022 F&W Best New Chef, has a cousin professionally engaged in crafting altars for Día de Muertos. She holds her grandfather Manuel Castro Fernandez, who taught her about tradition, generosity, and above all, the love for food, close to her heart. For her, arroz a la Mexicana, his most cherished dish, holds a special place on this day.

Claudette Zepeda, a prominent chef and TV personality, celebrates Día de Muertos with a feast. Her offerings are a tribute to her grandmother, Paula Valadez, her ally and a strong matriarch. This year, her spread will feature a selection of cookies, candied pumpkin, and a cheesecake with cajeta, paying homage to her recently departed father, Hugo Herberto Zepeda.

Fermín Núñez, the lauded 2021 F&W Best New Chef, has a special tradition for Día de Muertos – making a mole negro in memory of his grandmother, María Eugenia Chávez de Núñez. The process involves setting the right mood and undisturbed concentration. “This mole is an expression of who I am and what I’ve gone through to get to this version,” he reveals.

Isabel Coss, another acclaimed 2023 F&W Best New Chef, includes pictures of major influencers on her ofrenda. However, her grandmother Matilde Olvera holds a special position. Following her grandmother's rule-breaking spirit, Coss prepares and enjoys a pan de muerto in memory of her.

Last year, I made a pilgrimage back to Oaxaca to partake in the majesty of Día de Muertos on native soil. The bustling city, adorned with traditional cempasúchil flowers, filled with pint-sized carnivals, and vibrant cemeteries, radiated electric energy. Families gathered graveside, sharing stories, laughter, and drinks, cultivating a whispered sense of connectedness with departed loved ones.

Baker Héctor García sums up the spirit of the holiday, saying, "We disconnect from reality to be in communion, the people who are alive and those who aren't…that's what makes Día de Muertos special."

Garcia's statement underlines the fundamental principle of the holiday – dedicating time to build an altar and celebrate the memory of those no longer with us. This year, I'll add a few more pictures to my ofrenda. My recent losses include my grandmother, one of my uncles, and my grandfather-in-law. But unlike other times, on Día de Muertos, I won't be sad. Instead, I'll be welcoming them with a path of cempasúchil, a plate of enchiladas verdes, and a heart full of gratitude, thanks to the remarkable culture that ingrained this belief in me.