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Chef Cheetie Kumar: Transforming Raleigh's Culinary Landscape

cooking

By Penelope W.

- Sep 29, 2024

Beloved chef Cheetie Kumar stands as a pillar of Raleigh, North Carolina's ever-evolving restaurant scene. Revered for her innovative approach to culinary creation, she garnered much acclaim at her James Beard Award-nominated establishment, Ajja, and her fondly remembered, now-closed restaurant, Garland. Kumar's contributions go beyond gastronomy, though; as a talented guitarist for the band Birds of Avalon and co-owner of a music venue, she integrates her passion for tunes into Ajja's live concerts in the backyard.

On Ajja's prolific menu, mouth-watering lamb biryani sits alongside a vibrant summer squash casserole. Party-goers will rave about the spiced carrot and whipped feta dip, while a collection of clever, fundamental recipes might find a permanent place in your own kitchen repertoire.

"A biryani that's akin to shepherd’s pie but more elaborate," says the charming Kumar. With careful planning and some practical advice, such as buying fried onions and opting for pre-cubed lamb, novice home-cooks can easily whip up this iconic dish-the process might seem daunting initially, but it's as manageable as making coq au vin or a braised brisket.

She also recommends a Punjabi riff on the classic ratatouille using fresh summer squash. Elevate this dish to a main course by adding wholesome cubes of paneer. A dip of spiced and caramelized carrots with tangy whipped feta can steal the show at parties-just spread it onto a slice of toasted sourdough to enjoy the smoky, sweet heat of Urfa pepper.

Kumar swears by whole milk as a versatile ingredient that can amplify the flavor of a variety of dishes, including the biryani. Despite saffron's notorious expense, she assures that even a small quantity can significantly boost the taste.

Essential to Kumar's dishes is her homemade masala paste, a creamy, nutty blend of cashews, toasted spices, and fruity Kashmiri chiles-the sought-after biryani gets its luxurious heat from this paste. Such a potent flavour blend could find its way into numerous dishes for that added punch.

Kumar's unique yogurt marinade also lends a surge of flavor to his ethereal recipes. A symphony of garam masala, black pepper, cumin, fennel seeds, mace, and more spices join forces with whole-milk yogurt to break down the proteins in meats like lamb, goat, and chicken, rendering them tender and succulent on the palate. Cheetie Kumar continues to inspire through her culinary magic, intertwining music, community, and gastronomy to create a uniquely satisfying experience for all.