Rising culinary star and author Asha Gomez draws on her cherished memories from Kerala, India, for holiday dining inspiration. The pre-dawn yuletide feasts at her grandmother's house, featuring a lovingly prepared beef curry that simmered since the previous midnight, are particularly special.

Asha's modern version features succulent boneless short ribs, slowly braised in a fragrant, spiced sauce incorporating curry leaves, star anise, cinnamon and garam masala. To optimize browning and texture, the beef is salted before searing to allow for effective moisture reduction. Served with delicate appams, this dish is a taste of Asha's childhood Christmases.

Garam masala, which translates to "hot blend," is a crucial element of Indian culinary heritage. Combining warming spices such as nutmeg, cumin, black pepper, cardamom, coriander, cassia, star anise, and mace, it is a versatile mix, customized by each chef for a personal touch. Whether used in tandoori chicken, lamb korma, spiced yogurt marinade, or chicken tikka masala, garam masala amplifies the depth and complexity of various proportions. It can also form the flavor foundation of a curry or soup when cooked with aromatic vegetables.

Choosing the right cut of meat for a curry is crucial. Ideal cuts have high collagen content and some marbling of fat, such as the beef short ribs, chuck steak, or beef round. When heated, the collagen breaks down into a succulent gelatin around 160℉, resulting in tender mouthfuls of beef. Before searing, it's crucial to season the beef with salt to extract surface moisture and ensure a crisper texture and deeper browning. Beef for this recipe can be ordered online.

Enhance the curry's warming characteristics with a fine white wine, such as Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer, known for its floral, apricot-like aroma. The curry can be portioned and stored in an airtight container, refrigerated for four to five days or frozen for up to a month.

The precise ingredients and method for Asha's grandmother's Kerala beef curry can be found in the December 2024 / January 2025 issue of Food & Wine magazine. Bring a taste of Kerala's rich cuisine and holiday traditions to your home this festive season.